National Burger Day 2016: Field Grey’s Favourite East London Burgers!

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It’s that time of year again when the nation applauds its favourite combination of beef and bun. Kickstarted by Shortlist Magazine and Mr Hyde, National Burger Day celebrates the rise and rise of the original fast food item. Updated for 2016, we’ve picked our favourite neighbours – in no particular order, of course. All that’s left is to choose is which one to visit tonight…

Bleecker St Burger

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Bleecker St. Burger, Old Spitalfields Market, Unit B, SP 4 Pavilion Building, London E1 6EA.
Bleecker St. Burger began as a humbler burger van, taking its name from owner Zan Kaufman’s favourite Manhattan street. It was in New York City that Kaufman fell in love with burgers; the van quickly became a regular on the London street food scene. Bleecker St. Burger is now one of the capital’s most celebrated cheesburger champions and a new permanent location has opened in Spitalfields Market. Aged patties, sesame-topped toasted buns, American cheese and hand cut fries are a winning combination. They are promising something extra cheesy this year…

Haché

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Haché, 147 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, EC2A 3QE.
HachĂ© has five branches across London and prides itself on a more upmarket burger than most. A range of globally inspired designs are available; behold the Bavarian (above) – with a huge slab of smoked cheese and heaps of caramelised onions. We favour the Shoreditch branch, but you can find them in Clapham, Chelsea, Camden and Balham, too.

Hawksmoor

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Hawksmoor, 157A Commercial St, London E1 6BJ
The meat kings at Hawksmoor were serving burgers long before burgers were on trend – and their offering is still one of our favourites. There is absolutely nothing not to love about a burger in a brioche bun crammed with creamy cheese and Kimchi. Absolutely nothing at all. Go and treat yourselves and you’ll spy Field Grey’s Hawksmoor aprons, too.

Red’s True Barbecue

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Red’s True Barbecue, 54-56 Great Eastern Street, Shoreditch, London EC2A 3QR
All hail Red’s True Barbecue. Brand new to Great Eastern Street, we’ve been worshipping at their temple for some time at the Manchester restaurant, and when we discovered they were coming to the capital, we couldn’t believe our luck. With a barbecue bible theme, confession booth WCs and a host of religious references, the team at Red’s deliver heavenly burgers, sausages, ribs and plenty of other meaty goodness. They are famed for their donut burger – which we’ve yet to try as the image (above) worries our arteries, but fellow believers tell us it’s unbelievably tasty. Let there be meat.

Dirty Burger

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Dirty Burger, 13 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6LA
Dirty Burger is as wonderful as it sounds. The Soho House Group are behind this no frills burger haven. There’s the classic dirty cheesburger, a dirty bacon burger, and a ‘dirty cop-out’ (ouch) for vegetarians. We used to have to trek to Whitechapel to satisfy our dirty needs, now we only have to walk around the corner to the Tea Building, where there’s a tiny branch as part of Shoreditch House. The apple pie is a must-have, too.

Patty & Bun

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Patty & Bun, 22/23 Liverpool St, London EC2M 7PD
Patty & Bun remains a firm favourite, too. The diminutive branch on Liverpool Street has a takeaway hatch, which makes it all too easy to walk past and sample their incredible meat. The ‘Smokey Robinson’ with bacon, caramelised onions and smokey mayo is absolutely wonderful. There’s a new branch on Redchurch St, making it a tough call between a pit stop there or Dirty Burger on the other side of the block.

Honest Burger

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Honest Burgers, 12 Widegate Street London E1 7HP
Honest Burgers always top ‘best of’ lists and it’s easy to see why. The owners, Tom and Phil, started under a marquee at various food festivals before securing a small unit in Brixton village. There are now nine locations across the capital and you can often find us at their Spitalfields branch. The restaurant’s signature burger contains a blend of onion relish, smoked bacon and mature cheddar that is so good you’ll immediately want to order another. The rosemary salted chips are little nuggets of deliciousness too, especially when dipped in homemade chipotle mayonnaise or bacon ketchup. Honest serve burgers across numerous locations now – see the website for your local one!

For more information on National Burger Day and to find out which restaurants offer 20% off, visit the dedicated website.

All images courtesy of respective restaurants.

The Great British Bake Off: If Field Grey Designed the Aprons!

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Picture courtesy Love Productions/BBC

Here at Field Grey HQ, we’re beyond excited that The Great British Bake Off returns to BBC1 this evening. A few weeks later than normal due to the Rio 2016 Olympics, Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood are back in the tents with twelve new bakers ready to show off their finest fancies, best buns and perfect pastries.

As apron aficionados, we’ve put ourselves to the test and devised what we’d wear if we made a starring role in the Bake Off tent. A selection of Field Grey staff gave it some thought, and here’s what we came up with!

Janice

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My apron would be an old workwear type, falling apart and smelling of flour, bread and burnt confectionery. My mum owned a bakery for 25 years and in the summer holidays I would be made to stand on a large baking tray when I made the homemade pies to catch the pastry as it fell on the floor! As a result I make a mean Danish pastry and scones.

Colette

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I recently designed an apron using this fabric and I love this colour! I am fan of the cross-back apron at the moment and would add big antique brass eyelets and rivets. I’m definitely a messy baker. My Grandma taught me to bake when I was little. I would come home from school and bake cupcakes with her, apparently they were all gone by the time my parents got home!

Randolph

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I’ve delved into the Field Grey archive and chosen one of our bespoke apron designs created for The Restaurant & Bar Design Awards 2013. For me simplicity is key and I think this design is genius; a contemporary take on chefs whites. It’s great for hiding a cloud of flour and icing sugar dust, but probably best I don’t attempt a chocolate fondant.

Jess

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Ive chosen an apron made from recycled denim by a Tokyo Brand called Bonum. Not a single one is the same🙂

Barbara

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We are going to host a Bake Off competition of our own, and Finance Director Barbara ensures us she is going to knock our spots off. Barbara wore this to make Janice’s 40th birthday cake. It’s a running joke in the office about how many eggs Barbara used to make Janice’s birthday cake; we asked her yesterday and her response was ‘never mind the 16 eggs, what about the 1.5 kg of dark chocolate!’

The Great British Bake Off starts tonight on BBC1 at 8pm.

Amazon Prime launches fashion epic ‘The Collection’ – a look at the costumes

The Collection Amazon Prime Video

Image courtesy Amazon Prime Video UK

You may not have heard of fashion designer Paul Sabine yet, but come September everybody will be obsessed with him.

He’s the charismatic, talented and fictional protagonist of The Collection, a new, lavish costume drama exclusively produced by Amazon Prime. Set in a post-war Parisian fashion house, this epic production focuses on Paul and his family tasked with restoring Paris as the haute couture capital of the world. At a screening of the first episode, we learned that the drama lies in what Paul will do to achieve his goal. We’ll remain tight-lipped, of course, but we can’t wait to catch up with Paul in September to see exactly how far he’ll go in the name of fashion.

Picture shows: Marjorie Sutter (SARAH PARISH) and Dominique (POPPY CORBY–TUECH) Image Courtesy Amazon Prime Video UK

Picture shows: Marjorie Sutter (SARAH PARISH) and Dominique (POPPY CORBY–TUECH) Image Courtesy Amazon Prime Video UK

In a post-war Parisian drama, fashion is of course at the heart of the production. Legendary French costume designers Chattoune + Fab have been tasked with creating the on-screen fashion. Their CV includes a CĂ©sar nomination for Chanel & Stravinsky, so they were an obvious choice to replicate and reimagine the style of the time. There are so many layers to the costume in The Collection and Field Grey’s appetite was whet at the official launch with a selection of dresses on display.

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Of course, the ‘collection’ is at the heart of the drama, with the first couple of episodes focussing on the design and production process, as well as personal drama itself. We get a glimpse at Sabine’s atelier – the fascinating fashion factory we’ve come to be infatuated with after documentaries like Signe Chanel and Dior & I. In their trademark white lab coats – one of fashion’s most iconic uniforms – the technicians scramble their way through designs and toiles. We expect there will be much drama amongst the technicians as the series unfolds on screen, too.

Episode 1 of 'The Collection' - Picture courtesy Amazon Prime Video UK

Episode 1 of ‘The Collection’ – Picture courtesy Amazon Prime Video UK

At the launch we glimpsed a number of frocks fresh from the sets of The Collection. The inspiration lies heavily in Dior’s New Look, defined by the bold, feminine silhouettes of the 1940s. Nipped waists and full, mid-calf length skirts, with emphasis on the bust and hips, characterised Dior’s revolutionary collection and define the outfits in this drama. The design duo estimate they made 1200 costumes for this epic production, including 30 haute couture frocks for Sabine’s first post-war collection. They surveyed over 2000 documents from Parisian archives and focussed on Dior and Balenciaga as well as lesser-known designers located in old Vogue magazines.

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Dressing the other characters was a challenge, too – the designers had to switch from fashion designers to costume designers regularly. They had the mammoth task of producing fashion that was a testament to its era as well as clothes that would look good on screen.

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The Collection launches exclusively on Amazon Prime Video on September 2nd. For more information, visit the website.

Costumes photographed by Matt Bramford for Field Grey

Rio Olympics 2016: Fantasy Fashion Designer Uniforms

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The 31st Olympiad, Rio 2016, launched on Friday in spectacular style. With an epic display rich with Brazilian culture, including samba dancers and a fabulous catwalking Gisele, the opening ceremony had everything we were hoping for.

It was also our first glimpse of the competing nations’ uniforms – and we observed with interest the diversity and national identity that the varying teams’ kits displayed. From the vibrant prints of Cameroon to the sophisticated ensembles of the USA and Australia, the quantity of uniform on display was enough to keep us going for months.

And, while fashion designers creating sports uniforms is no new concept – major players like Ralph Lauren and Stella McCartney have become as synonymous with sport as they have with their own labels – we thought we’d create some fantasy uniforms. We offer our take on what other fashion designers could do to revolutionise their home nations’ kits. Here’s what we dreamed of:

TEAM GB: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

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Now there’s nothing wrong with Stella McCartney’s radical designs for Team GB at Rio, but we’ve imagined Vivienne Westwood fashioning up a suitable kit for our home nation’s athletes. With her Anglophilic designs and iconic, painterly, distressed Union Jack, Dame Viv could revolutionise Great Britain’s uniform.

BELGIUM: RAF SIMONS

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Even though Raf is jetting off to the US to take helm at Calvin Klein, probably as we type, we thought he’d be the perfect designer to take care of his homeland of Belgium’s Olympics uniform. A collaboration with the artist Sterling Ruby would of course be on the cards; his dynamic paintings with linear paint splashes would make the perfect backdrop for Raf’s designs. Taking inspiration from his AW14 collection, we imagined vinyl prints of Belgian sports stars and emblems could adorn the kits, from Belgian cyclist Eddy Merckx to the county’s own stadium and their 1920 Olympics poster.

ITALY: VERSACE

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There are many Italian designers who could step up to the challenge of producing the home nation’s kit – but we’re firmly in camp Versace and we’ve envisioned a radical set of designs using the company’s iconic Baroque emblems. Which athlete wouldn’t want to compete in a pair of Versace-branded golden belt buckle pants? Or a vest with juxtaposed prints? We’ll email Donatella and see what she thinks.

FRANCE: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

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With so much ridiculous gender bias in media reporting only six days in, from the length of skirts to differences in culture, who better to put the cat amongst the proverbial pigeons than Jean Paul Gaultier; with a heady mix of gender-specific uniforms tied with French national identity, he could revolutionise sports kit and supply a humorous statement in the process. We suggest his synonymous stripes for alpha males and french hosiery including corsets and knickers for the ladies.

GREECE: MARY KATRANTZOU

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Who better to design the uniform for Greece than queen of prints Mary Katrantzou? The birthplace of the Olympics needs a bold design, and Katrantzou’s magical and ethereal designs could give the team a much-needed boost. We suggest symmetrical prints of Olympia itself or the glorious architecture of Santorini. The design top right is a submission for a new facade for the Piraeus Tower, Athens – it’s as if Mary had a hand in the architecture herself.

JAPAN: YAYOI KUSAMA

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Yes, technically not a fashion designer in the traditional sense, but we couldn’t resist working up Yayoi Kusama’s staple circle prints into a custom-designed Japanese kit.

Who would be your fantasy fashion designer for national teams? Do tell us!

Illustrations by Matt Bramford

Meet the team at the Museum of Science and Industry, Manchester!

A couple of weekends ago, we popped up North to meet some of the team at Manchester’s Museum of Science and Industry (MSI). Field Grey were contacted by design agency Hemisphere who were rebranding the museum, and they asked us to design a uniform solution that would reflect the updated brand identity. Field Grey worked in tangent with Hemisphere to create the collection which included bespoke lanyards, security cards, enamel pin badges and off the peg t-shirts with a bespoke letter box print using the museum’s new graphics. We paid a visit to the museum to see the uniforms in action and meet some of the staff that make the museum come to life.

The museum is dedicated to the education and the exploration of science and ideas. Some of the staff we met help visitors navigate the museum and explore what’s on; others bring science to life through workshops and demonstrations. Here are some of the ladies and gentlemen that we met:

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_190Chris, Explainer Team Leader
Chris joined MSI six months ago. His role is to manage of team of ‘Explainers’ who interpet the exhibitions for visitors and communicate different aspects of science for children and adults alike. He’s well practised, having worked in education youth services before joining the museum.

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_029Danil, Visitor Experience
Danil’s worked at MSI for nearly two years, but he might not be there much longer. He graduated a few days before we met him, having studied Film and Location studies. He had a job interview the day before – Good Luck Danil!

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_049Craig, Visitor Experience
Craig’s from nearby Stockport and has clocked up four glorious years at MSI. His favourite part of daily life there is meeting lots of new people – ‘every day is completely different!’ he told us. In his spare time, he likes walking. And posing.

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_200Ellie, Explainer
Ellie is 9 months into life at MSI. As an explainer, she loves getting involved in the ‘fun, sometimes weird activities!’ She has a degree in genetics and is currently studying for an MSc in genetic counselling.

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Former Attitude Magazine ‘Man of the Month’, Craig is a former Art Director on Hollyoaks. He’s now a practising artist and exhibits regularly. He also has the world’s largest private collection of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Willy Wonka memorabilia in the world – Guinness certified! Kylie Minogue once signed his arm, too – so he had it tattooed!

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_173Phil, Visitor Experience
Phil’s been working at MSI since February. Originally from Wales, he moved to Manchester 18 years ago; he’s also an actor and loves the theatre.

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_021Emma, Visitor Experience
Emma had only been working at the museum for two weeks when she was thrust in front of our camera. She’s originally from Derbyshire and when she’s not working at MSI she volunteers at our other favourite Manchester museum, The Whitworth.

MattBramford_FieldGrey_MSI_Manchester_176Ann, Visitor Experience
Ann moved to Manchester in September last year from her home town of Dudley. She’s a gym bunny and loves practising yoga. Her favourite part of the museum is the new Graphene exhibition, which launched on the day of our shoot!

Portraits shot by Matt Bramford for Field Grey

Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design at SFO Museum, San Francisco Airport

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We spend a lot of time wishing we were on the Golden Coast of California, but today especially so. The SFO Museum has launched an exhibition of airline uniforms at their base in San Francisco airport.

From Valentino to Vivienne Westwood, the display is a who’s who of fashion design. The existence and significance of airline uniforms is well documented. From Cliff Muskiet’s incredible collection (read our interview here) to numerous exhibitions globally, cabin crew uniform holds a unique position in the history of womenswear. They convey the glamour of the vocation across the ages and they project the airline’s brand through colour, shape and motif; they document changes across design as a whole.

This exhibition presents over seventy pieces from the last eighty-five years. It traces the development of uniform design, from the utility wear pre-Second World War to the commissioning of haute couturiers in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, through to the designs of fashion designers now.

The majority of pieces are already held by the SFO Museum (oh, to raid their archives!), exhibited alongside donations from airlines and staff. Here are our favourites:

A History of Airline Uniform Design

Transcontinental & Western Air hostess uniform by Howard Greer, 1944

One of the oldest items in the exhibition is this stunning light blue garberdine outfit designed by Hollywood royalty Howard Greer. It was worn by Transcontinental stewardesses in the 1940s onwards. Its ingenious triangular lapel allowed the TWA embroidered logo to be covered, to allow air hostesses to smoke or enjoy a cocktail without fear of damaging the airline’s reputation.

Trans World Airlines hostess uniform by Oleg Cassini, 1955

Trans World Airlines hostess uniform by Oleg Cassini, 1955

For the same airline, a decade later, Oleg Cassini designed this lightweight green wool number. Cassini was famed as First Lady Jaqueline Kennedy’s official designer.

Braniff International Airways hostess uniform by Emilio Pucci, 1966

Braniff International Airways hostess uniform by Emilio Pucci, 1966

We’ve covered the Braniff babes before, and Pucci’s hostess designs shocked the entire airline industry. The vivid colour palette and heady geometric patterns signalled a new era in hostess fashion, with a collection of skirts, dresses, tunics, trousers and culottes.

Air France stewardess uniform by CristĂłbal Balenciaga, 1969

Air France stewardess uniform by CristĂłbal Balenciaga, 1969

Spanish designer CristĂłbal Balenciaga created this super sartorial semi-fitted look in 1969 for Air France. The utility pockets on the breast and sleeves were reminiscent of war-era designs, but a modern cut provided a better, more comfortable fit for hostesses.

Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform by Don Loper, 1959

Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform by Don Loper, 1959

Ah, Pan Am – perhaps the most iconic airline uniform in the world. Designed by Beverley Hills designer Don Loper, the famous Pan Am jacket and skirt set a precedent for glamorous airline design. The aerodynamic cut of the suit reflected the dawn of the jet age, with angular pockets and lapels and the quintessential fin on the hat completed the look.

Trans World Airlines flight attendant uniform by Valentino, 1971

Trans World Airlines flight attendant uniform by Valentino, 1971

Trans World Airlines commissioned the legendary Valentino to create their uniforms in 1971. His passion for colour is evident in this design; the bright plum tones and decadent gold buttons (carrying a ‘V’ logo) were a revolutionary shift towards a more couture approach to cabin dressing.

Qantas Airways flight attendant uniform by Yves Saint Laurent , 1986

Qantas Airways flight attendant uniform by Yves Saint Laurent , 1986

Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic kangaroo print was produced for Qantas in 1986. Worn until 1991, this ensemble screams 1980s, with angular padded shoulders, contrasting cuffs, wide lapels and button-up poly-cotton skirt – all wouldn’t look out of place in the designers Rive Gauche collections of the same decade.

Aeroméxico flight attendant uniform by Macario Jiménez, 2008

Aeroméxico flight attendant uniform by Macario Jiménez, 2008

Finally, an underrated gem in the collection is Macario JimĂ©nez’s AeromĂ©xico design, worn between 2008 and 2011. The lapel-less, tailored jacket with red piping detail and waist belt is super sexy. It’s accompanied by a jazzy Pucci-esque scarf.

For more information about the exhibition, visit the museum’s website.

All images courtesy SFO Museum

Field Trip: Uniform and Textiles at the Imperial War Museum

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Last weekend Field Grey took an inspirational yet somewhat sombre tour of the Imperial War Museum.

The museum displays a vast selection of military uniforms from the First World War right up to today, alongside documenting changes in lifestyle and culture during the periods when Britain was at war. We wanted to learn more about the nuances of military uniforms and explore their impact on culture, lifestyle, manufacturing and design. Here’s what we found.

One of the first examples of uniform in the museum is the Russian Officer’s Greatcoat, owned by Kaiser Wilhelm II, a favourite grandson of Queen Victoria. The blue-grey greatcoat features striking yellow piping and buttons that carry the double-headed eagle emblem of Imperial Russia.

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The museum has a huge collection of First World War uniforms and displays more of these than from any other period in history. This is the uniform of a Russian artillery officer.

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In contrast, this vibrant blue jacket is part of the uniform of a trooper from the Austrian 8th Lancer regiment.

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This terrifying linen robe, with hand-painted camouflage, was worn by snipers during the First World War. A wide variety of camouflage clothing schemes were adopted on the Western Front.

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The museum’s collection features a variety of uniform accessories, including helmets, armour and utility items.

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We were overwhelmed by the attention to detail and techinical considerations on these uniforms of the Australian Imperial Force. Note the relaxed tailoring and accessories, considering everything a soldier might need with him.

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It’s not all military uniforms in the IWM collections. The museum has a vast archive of other uniforms and textiles, which explore other roles essential to the war effort. Below is an example of a nurse’s uniform from the Voluntary Aid Detachments (VAD), the voluntary unit providing nursing services and the largest of any wartime organisation. To the right is an example of ‘hospital blues’ – the clothing worn by injured servicemen as a signal they had been injured serving their country.

MattBramford_FieldGrey_ImperialWarMuseum_044 (See Sadie Williams’ re-envisioned WWI nurse’s uniform here)

The site of women wearing trousers and uniforms was revolutionary. On the right here is a blue overcoat worn by typists to protect clothing; on the left, a uniform worn by female van drivers of the Midland Railway. The gaiters for the uniform sit just in front.

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This overall with embroidered patch was worn by women of the Women’s Land Army (WLA).

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Uniforms of US, Canadian and French officers:

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In the moving A Family at Wartime permanent exhibition, an entire house is set up as in the 1940s. The exhibits move to the Second World War. The dresses below were both of interest; to the left is a shift dress made from parachute material, to the right is a utility dress under the CC41 scheme.

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Designs for war and camouflage have little changed in a century. Compare this multi-terrain pattern shirt from 2015 to the linen robe above:

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The museum archives pieces and tracks development in the creation of protection for war service personnel. A selection of tin helmets from the Second World War are on display.

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This is a pair of protective wellingtons were worn by Will Pooley, the first Briton to contract Ebola in the fight against the disease in Sierra Leone in 2014.

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There is also a beautiful display of commemorative silk scarves, something we’ve been interested in researching for some time. Headscarves were extremely popular during the Second World War; these examples were based on propaganda images and slogans.

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More recent items include this American airman’s leather jacket:

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…contrasting with this vibrant orange escape suit, commissioned during Britain’s operations moving to the Trident nuclear system. (This particular suit was left in a pub after a fancy dress party according to the IWM archive…)

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For more information or to explore the IWM archives fully, visit the website.

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Field Grey made a donation to Help for Heroes as part of this post